The mention of stem cell research might bring to mind images of embryos in a lab used to create products meant for the skin anti-ageing business.
The mountain flower called Edelweiss contains leontopodic acids, chlorogenic acid and other ingredients that may promote younger-looking skin.
For most of us, it seems unnatural, perhaps even unholy, to even think of using such a controversial method of defying age.
But stem cells from embryos are not the full picture, as there is more than one kind of stem cell.
Here is a breakdown of the science behind these mysterious skincare products to help you navigate this brave new world of beauty.
Human stem cells
Human stem cells are a powerful tool in science. They are unique because they have the potential to become a specialised cell, and can divide and renew themselves.
In research labs, embryonic stem cells are preferred, as they are more flexible than adult stem cells.
They usually come from four- to five-day-old embryos left over from in-vitro fertilization.
The controversy occurs because obtaining these stem cells requires the destruction of the embryo.
As it contains a potential human life, many have questioned the ethics of using embryos.
Plant stem cells
On the other hand, plant stem cells offer the same ability to self-renew and replace specific plant cells in need of repair, just like human cells.
Plant stem cells used in beauty products are cultured in pollution- and pesticide-free labs.
This technology enables scientists to have more control over the quality and quantity of anti-ageing substances the plant produces; without toxins or chemicals sneaking in from an outside source, purer ingredients are created.
Stem cells, or more precisely, the messaging molecules that are harvested from stem cells, can offer these benefits in skincare products:
• Provide antioxidant protection
• Protect skin from photo-damage by ultraviolet (UV) radiation
• Protect skin from other types of oxidative damage
• Provide anti-inflammatory benefits
• Provide stimulation to epidermal stem cells
• Increase the longevity of skin cells
Edelweiss, a mountain flower made popular by The Sound of Music, contains leontopodic acids, chlorogenic acid and other ingredients that may promote younger-looking skin.
It is said to have anti-inflammatory and cytoprotective (cell-protecting) properties. It may also prevent collagen breakdown.
Centella asiatica (also known as gotu kola, daun pegaga, Asian pennywort, pang dai woon) is native to the swamps of Madagascar, India, Sri Lanka and Indonesia.
It has been used in Ayurvedic medicine for thousands of years and supposedly has anti-ageing benefits, among other uses.
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| Centella asiatica (also known as Gotu kola, Daun Pegaga, Asian Pennywort, Pang Dai Woon) has been used in Ayurvedic medicine for thousands of years and supposedly has anti-ageing benefits, among other uses. |
It has also been found to increase collagen in the face.
Uttwiler Spätlauber is a rare Swiss apple that supposedly has “magical” anti-ageing capabilities. However, there is not enough information about this endangered fruit to be sure of its properties.
Raspberry cell cultures are said to moisturise and lock in hydration.
Other popular sources of plant stem cells harvested for ingredients for skin care products include lilac, algae and grape seed.
The key to stem cells
Stem cells release cytokines, a type of protein, as a way to communicate with each other. This is called cell signalling.
One type of cytokine is known as growth factor, which promotes cell growth, healing and differentiation. It is important to know about cytokines because the stem cells of humans and plants do not share the same chemical make-up. Attempting to regenerate new skin cells in humans by using plant stem cells is physiologically impossible and an exercise in futility.
What can be done, however, is harvesting plant stem cells for their growth factors. Adding growth factors to stem cell products can stimulate protein production.
Stem cells are broken up when harvested, preserving the signalling molecules while discarding the rest.
So, when a product claims to contain stem cells, what it actually means is that the product contains growth factors and signalling molecules that have been extracted from the stem cells.
Whole stem cells would not be able to get through your skin because they are too large to penetrate the skin barrier.
Even individual ingredients like molecules often have difficulty getting into your skin and entering the deeper layers.
Why so expensive?
Creams and serums with stem cell-derived ingredients are also more expensive to produce, compared to going out to a field and picking some plants.
Youthful-looking skin comes at a price. The higher-end creams with stem cell-derived ingredients can set you back a few hundred, perhaps thousands of ringgit. A lot of what you pay for is really the research and development.
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| Other popular sources of plant stem cells harvested for ingredients for skin care products include lilac, algae and grape seed. |
Another possible reason that these serums contain hefty price tags is that they are “a novelty”. In 20 years’ time, it is possible that you may find them at your local pharmacy.
Cutting-edge skin care ingredients are exciting, but one should remain wary of the claims made about stem cell products.
This is because the evidence behind those claims is still limited, and we are just at the beginning of much more to come.
My advice is, if you can afford to experiment without a guarantee it will work, then by all means go ahead and try stem cell products.
But if you have a limited budget, wait a bit for the industry to advance and focus your attention instead on ingredients that are already proven to deliver results to your skin, like peptides, retinoids, antioxidants and anti-inflammatory ingredients.
There is a lot of promise when it comes to stem cell poducts, but some of the advertising is a bit overstated. The best advice to follow is if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is – buyers, beware.
http://www.star2.com/living/viewpoints/2016/09/18/what-you-should-know-about-stem-cells/
