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Showing posts with label Umami. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Umami. Show all posts

Monday, 12 June 2017

How to count on food – Part 3

You are probably aware that humans have five main taste sensitivities in the mouth; namely bitter, salt, sweet, sour and umami. There are claims of other taste sensations such as kokumi (an extension of umami expressed as heartiness or “richness”, such as in mature cheeses and slow-cooked foods ...


How to count on food – Part 3
The most common additive in the E6xx range by far is E621 (monosodium glutamate or MSG), the umami-inducing chemical often vilified by self-righteous health websites. Photo: Visualhunt.com


Read Part 1 and Part 2

You are probably aware that humans have five main taste sensitivities in the mouth; namely bitter, salt, sweet, sour and umami. There are claims of other taste sensations such as kokumi (an extension of umami expressed as heartiness or “richness”, such as in mature cheeses and slow-cooked foods), fats, and perhaps also starches (particularly the shorter-chain carbohydrates) – and on the surface, the claims seem quite plausible though due to genetic differences in humans, it is possible that these additional tastes may not be experienced as commonly as the main five tastes.
Regardless of whether humans experience five, seven or eight tastes, food scientists know a lot about the chemicals that trigger taste cells in human taste buds (a taste bud is normally a collection of different taste cells) – and hence there is an assortment of compounds which can be introduced to processed foods to render them much more attractive to eat.

The bitter problem

At this point, the bitter taste sense warrants a little further discourse – it is the most sensitive taste in most humans and probably evolved to protect us from ingesting poisonous foods.
As a result, humans generally do not like food which is significantly bitter, apart from coffee, tea, beers, certain vegetables and some alcoholic cocktails. Children also have up to three times as many taste cells as adults and this explains why many kids are particularly averse to bitter foods such as broccoli, sprouts, mushrooms, cabbages, et cetera – they tend to slowly lose this antipathy as they grow up.
The sense of bitter is actually pretty interesting as humans can sense bitter in many, many thousands of separate compounds, and if you are curious about how this works, here’s a little summary.
The problem is that some common food additives are particularly bitter chemicals and mass-produced food needs to address the general taste preferences of large populations – hence bitterness in processed foods is a problem which needs to be eliminated, or at least masked.
A classic example is drinks containing caffeine, which is a very bitter compound in its natural state – as a result practically all commercially packaged caffeine drinks are severely overloaded with sugars or sweeteners to mask the bitterness of caffeine.
There are around a dozen synthetic compounds which can block some of the bitter sensation – however, they are not very efficient as they cannot block all the bitter taste cells, so these compounds are not so commonly used.
food additives
The next time you read a food label at the grocery store, you will know a bit more about what those E6xx numbers stand for. Photo: AFP
Therefore, bitterness in processed foods usually need some form of masking, usually with sugars and salt. If there exists an effective way to reduce the taste of bitterness in foods, it is feasible that the sugar or salt content in many processed foods can be reduced by very significant amounts.
As a little digression, when looking into bitter-tasting food chemicals like E202 (potassium sorbate), E326 (potassium lactate), et cetera, I came across E211 (sodium benzoate) which is commonly used as a preservative agent in dairy, meat and other products due to its antiseptic properties – E211 is a curious compound as it can taste either salty, sweet, bitter or have no taste at all. How this happens, I have no idea but it appears to be linked to genetics.

The savouries

Returning back to the main subject, apart from some exceptions, the E6xx numbers deal mostly with additives which enhance the umami aspects of food – basically, the savoury taste that we enjoy when eating good meats, fine cheeses and delicious stocks.
The most common additive in this range by far is E621 (monosodium glutamate or MSG), the umami-inducing chemical often vilified by self-righteous health websites and various uninformed people – and this gauche prejudice warrants some comment.

Reality and MSG

food additives

Much research have confirmed very low levels of MSG toxicity in humans – poor research results in the past obtained using test rodents ignored the facts that (i) infant rodents are susceptible to MSG due to differences in their Blood-Brain Barrier (BBB), and (ii) they were injected with doses of MSG impossible to achieve when scaled up to human dietary consumption levels – in any case, humans do not inject themselves with strong solutions of MSG.
However, some asthmatics may react to pure MSG ingested without food and there may be a very small sub-set of humans who may experience a minor allergy to MSG (possibly due to genetics), though no such gene has currently been identified.
Importantly, to date, there are no known human deaths which can be directly linked to the consumption of MSG. There is also no conclusive evidence of any link between MSG and obesity, though it is likely humans might prefer to eat more food enhanced with MSG.
Once digested, the sodium and glutamate molecules in MSG get unlinked and the freed glutamate is chemically equivalent to glutamic acid which is an amino acid found in practically all proteins – the residual sodium is used by the body as an electrolyte or removed via the kidneys.
The body also produces glutamate itself as part of its metabolic processes.
Some confusion may have arisen from the fact that excess MSG in the brain can be an excitotoxin (a compound which kills brain cells) – however, there is no proof that dietary MSG can cross the human BBB and kill cells in the brain (though this is not true of test baby rodents).
As such, all the evidence suggests that MSG is a safe compound when ingested normally with food – therefore the Chinese restaurant syndrome that some people complain about is more likely linked to foods with possibly excessive salt, sugar or other ingredients rather than MSG.

Objections to MSG

By the way, please do not think that I am defending the use of MSG and other umami additives – because I am not.
In many cases, the use of these additives in processed food is primarily to enhance or disguise the use of poor-quality ingredients, and this is clearly objectionable.
However, it is often claimed that MSG disturbingly causes human health issues or brain damage – but this is simply scientifically untrue for the general human population.

The curious umami receptor

The taste receptor for umami is rather unusual in that it is a folded protein which elongates upon contact with MSG. Two other types of chemicals, inosinates and guanylates, can also bind to the extended umami receptor and this stimulates the sensation of umami by up to 15 times.
Hence, for many people, an unfair and wholly irresistible umami bomb would be foods containing all three chemicals – that is the reason why many snack foods tend to contain E621, E627 (disodium guanylate), E631 (disodium inosinate) or perhaps permutations of the following additives.
food additives

The combination of MSG, inosinate and guanylate in this label for a potato-based snack makes it irresistible for many humans.
There are variants of MSG used as additives, such as E620 (glutamic acid), E622 (monopotassium glutamate), E623 (calcium diglutamate), E624 (monoammonium glutamate) and E625 (magnesium diglutamate). For guanylates, other variations are E626 (guanylic acid), E628 (dipotassium guanylate) and E629 (calcium guanylate). And alternatives for inosinates are E630 (inosinic acid), E632 (dipotassium inosinate) and E633 (calcium inosinate).
As a side note, there may be some unspecific evidence of digestive issues for some people related to the potassium-based compounds.
Combination additives are E634 (calcium 5’-ribonucleotides) and E635 (disodium 5’-ribonucleotides) – these are effectively pre-mixed inosinates and guanylates and used where food already contains a lot of natural MSG (such as meat extracts) or added MSG.

The non-savouries

Produced from the gelatin derived from animal bones, E640 (glycine) is a very simple amino acid found in all animal or fish proteins and often sold as a health supplement in its own right (though the claimed benefits are somewhat extravagant). In food, it is used as a bread enhancer by providing nutrients for fermenting yeast.
E641 (l-leucine) is another amino acid used in the same way as E640 to enhance breads and is also sold as a health supplement as it can promote the synthesis of muscle proteins (though it does not seem to improve the muscle mass of older people).
Curiously, this essential amino acid is also sold for use as a weight control treatment – however, a normal diet would provide adequate l-leucine for healthy humans.
E636 (maltol) and E637 (ethyl maltol) can be used to improve the flavour of chocolates, candies and beverages but they are not included in the EU list of allowed additives, though their use appears to be permitted in the United States and other countries.
Again, please note that over-consumption of many additives may lead to possible health hazards and side-effects – and it is simply not possible to cover all potential reactions due to the numbers and combinations of additives.
However, most food additives are regulated in their use and therefore should not cause problems when processed foods are consumed in reasonable amounts by healthy humans.
The next part covers how processed food can be made to taste sweet without the use of sugar – and reviews a bitter scientific controversy which is currently still not wholly resolved to everyone’s satisfaction, even after over 40 years. You should be interested because it very probably affects you or someone you know.
http://www.star2.com/food/food-news/2017/06/11/count-on-food-3/

Read:  PART 4

Tuesday, 26 April 2016

The science of making dashi

Over his loaded schedule as chef-owner of Kyoto’s three Michelin-starred Kikunoi restaurant, Yoshihiro Murata travels the world to spread the word about washoku. The traditional Japanese cuisine was listed by Unesco as an intangible cultural heritage of humanity in 2013 and Murata played no small role in campaigning for its listing.


The science of making dashi
Guests were served a bento box lunch of yakimono (grilled fish), glossy tiger prawn, roast duck, seafood paste stuffed shitake, sesame seed tofu, dashi and wasabi jelly with dried scallop rice. Photos: The Star/Faihan Ghani
The venerable chef and goodwill ambassador for Japanese cuisine was in Kuala Lumpur earlier this year to give a demo on making dashi, a stock con-sidered to be at the centre of Japanese cuisine. It has been said that in Japanese cuisine, all roads lead to dashi, the base of all that is umami and yummy.
While making dashi by boiling together kombu seaweed and dried bonito fish flakes makes a reasonable dashi, there is a better way to do it, said Murata who is a Great Master of Traditional Japanese Cuisine and chairman of the influential non-profit Japanese Culinary Academy.
Brewing New Style Dashi with morel mushrooms, dried tomato and minced chicken breast meat.
Brewing New Style Dashi with morel mushrooms, dried tomato and minced chicken breast meat.
Together with Kyoto university researchers, Murata has found the optimum method for making dashi – or how to extract the maximum umami flavour by controlling heat and timing.
Murata’s recipe calls for soaking 50g of kombu (kelp) in water for an hour at 60°C as it is the optimum temperature for extracting umami, widely known as the fifth flavour element.
The seaweed is then removed and the water temperature raised to 80°C before papery shavings of dried bonito (katsuobushi) are added.
The tuna flakes are allowed to steep in the stock for just 10 seconds before being strained to avoid over extraction and gaining of unwanted taste elements.
The water for dashi is not allowed to come to a boil but if it happens, the umami is still there but the taste of the dashi will be different – clarity and a clean, delicate and nuanced savoury and sweet taste are what define excellent dashi from the merely good.
Dried morel – ot shiitake – mushrooms can be used instead of dried bonito flakes to make a vegetarian dashi.
Dried morel – ot shiitake – mushrooms can be used instead of dried bonito flakes to make a vegetarian dashi.
“For hundreds of years, we have been making dashi the wrong way,” said Murata through an interpreter, referring to the common practice of boiling kombu and katsuobushi to make dashi.
While his cooking is rooted in tradition, the chef – who always carries a thermometer in his sleeve pocket – takes a progressive approach to cooking which does not preclude the use of science to allow him to accurately communicate Japanese cuisine to the world.
The world’s most unconventional chefs, Ferran Adria, Hes-ton Blumenthal, Rene Redzepi and Pascal Barbot have all spent time in Murata’s kitchen.
His legendary restaurant Kikunoi has stood at the foothills of Kyoto for more than a century (established 1912 during his grandfather’s time), serving an elaborate parade of washoku dishes in a multi-course kaiseki ryori, the equivalent of the western degustation menu.
“There are 65 different items in a typical kaiseki ryori course and only 1000 calories,” said Murata. In comparison, a hamburger has about 1800 calories and a French meal of 25 items has about 2500 calories.
“So many chefs are curious about how we achieve this.”
Japanese cuisine is one based on seafood, grains and vegetables. For nearly 300 years (from 1635) Japan practised a closed door policy limiting trade and travel to curb the spread of Christianity by missionaries.
“For almost 300 years we had no meat and developed a taste for using only umami to enhance flavour,” Murata said, adding that there is zero calories in umami whereas 1g of tasty fat has 9 calories – so one can lose weight by replacing a meal with three bowls of miso soup made with dashi!
Dashi, a deceptively simple, clear broth at the heart of one of the world’s greatest cuisines, uses just three ingredients – seaweed, dried tuna and water – to produce a liquid with a maximum of umami, that savoury, meaty taste that coats the mouth and feeds the soul.
What gives kombu its high umami are two amino acids, glutamic and aspartic. When bonito flakes are added, the glutamate of kombu and the inosinate of bonito flakes produce a synergistic effect.
“The two together gives you eight times the umami effect,” said Murata impactfully to a roomful of chefs, restaurateurs, corporate personalities, ambassadors and media at the residence of Japanese ambassador Dr Makio Miyagawa.
“And to make it taste sweeter, add a little salt to the dashi,” he said.
Dried tomato has as much glutamic acid as kombu and can be used as a substitute in dashi making.
Dried tomato has as much glutamic acid as kombu and can be used as a substitute in dashi making.
Murata said vegetarians can make a dashi using dried mushrooms like shiitake and morel to replace the bonito flakes. Dried shiitake and morels also have high content of another umami substance, guanylate. Guanylate in a raw mushroom is rather low but is very high in dried mushroom.
Murata then demonstrated how to make a new style of dashi without kombu or bonito flakes!
In this new recipe, kombu is replaced by dried tomato – which has about the same amount of glutamic acid as kombu – and bonito flake is replaced by dried shiitake or morel mushrooms.
The dried ingredients are soaked overnight and then boiled in water together with some chicken breast to make a light and clear umami-packed stock in about an hour of simmering.
Dashi has a different taste profile from that of western-style stock but in both techniques, chefs are aiming to extract the umami taste of the ingredients. Free glutamate is one of the major amino acids found in various types of stocks, and it is rapidly extracted from food ingredients in the early stages of cooking, reports Kumiko Ninomiya in her article “Science of Umami” published online at BioMed Central.
“The use of ingredients high in umami such as dried kombu and bonito allow for a tasty stock to be made quickly. Kombu is dried slowly over a long period of time to remove moisture and odour, and boiled fillet of bonito is smoked and sprayed with a mold culture (Aspergillus glaucus) to make the hardest food in the world.
“Umami is concentrated in advance in these ingredients and can be rapidly extracted during cooking. Thus, cooking time for dashi is considerably shorter than in making a western stock” – which may require hours and days of simmering.
Goodwill ambassador of Japanese cuisine Chef Yoshihiro Murata of the three Michelin-starred Kikunoi restaurant in Kyoto was in KL to demonstrate the perfect way to make dashi with dried kombu seaweed and bonito flakes.
Goodwill ambassador of Japanese cuisine Chef Yoshihiro Murata of the three Michelin-starred Kikunoi restaurant in Kyoto was in KL to demonstrate the perfect way to make dashi with dried kombu seaweed and bonito flakes.
However, dashi has only a few amino acids while western soup stocks have more, including glutamate, alanine, and arginine.
Although the free amino acid profile of dashi is simpler, miso, a fermented soybean paste, can be added to dashi to add a variety of free amino acids to make miso soup. As a result, the total free amino acid content in miso soup and consommé is quite similar, according to the report.
Together with soy sauce and other seasonings, dashi helps reduce caloric intake and the danger of obesity compared with dishes that use oil or animal fat.
According to Nutritional Neuroscience, an international journal on nutrition, diet and nervous system, daily ingestion of dashi, even at low concentrations, reduces anxiety and alters amino acid levels in the brain. “Daily intake of dashi has also been shown to improve mood status such as tension-anxiety in humans,” the journal says.

ICHIBAN DASHI

30g kombu dried seaweed
50g dried bonito flakes (katsuobushi)
1.8 litre water
Wipe the surface of the kombu with a moist towel. Place the kombu in a saucepan with the water and heat it up to 60°C on very low heat. Let the kombu steep for 1 hour at 60°C.
Remove the kombu and bring the broth slowly up to 80°C. Remove the pan from heat and add the dried bonito flakes to the broth.
Leave bonito flakes to soak for 10 seconds – just about the time it takes the flakes to sink to the bottom of the pan – then remove the flakes by straining through a fine sieve or muslin bag without pressing – pressing may extract bitterness.
Murata always carries a thermometer around to measure the temperature of his dashi stock, crucial to getting it perfect.
Murata always carries a thermometer around to measure the temperature of his dashi stock, crucial to getting it perfect.

NEW STYLE DASHI

10g dried tomatoes
10g dried morrel mushrooms
200g chicken breast meat
4g salt (or 2% of meat weight)
2 litre water
Soak the dried tomatoes and dried mushrooms in the water overnight. Remove any visible fat from the chicken breast and grind the meat with a food processor. Add salt to the meat, mix well and set aside for 1 hour.
Tip the tomato, mushroom and water into a saucepan. Add chicken and bring to a gentle boil over medium heat.
When chicken is cooked, remove from heat and strain the dashi through a fine sieve or muslin filter bag.